Sun, Snorkelling & Sea Sickness: Welcome to the Gili Islands

Sun, Snorkelling & Sea Sickness:
Welcome to the Gili Islands

I caught the bug for island hopping when I visited Thailand, catching boats between Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, so when the opportunity came up to set sail for the Gili Islands, it was a no-brainer! The group consists of three islands; Gili Meno, Gili Air and the largest, Gili Trawangan, based to the North-West of Lombok. There are regular fast and slow boats transporting visitors from Bali and Lombok and, ever the impatient group, we opted for the faster choice, departing from Padang Bai and reaching Gili Trawangan in an hour and fifteen minutes.

The Gili’s themselves are some of the most beautiful islands I’ve had the pleasure of witnessing with my own eyes; the turquoise waters gently lapping against the white beaches, the palm trees swaying gently in the breeze and the sun beating down on these islands of paradise marooned in the Lombok Strait. This idyllic image is initially shattered with the clamour of multiple boats and hordes of tourists lugging huge suitcases onto, or off, the boats but can be quickly rediscovered once you make your way around the island away from the main harbour.

There were two main highlights I took from visiting the islands; the first being paddle-boarding. The four of us hired boards and paddles and, with this being my first time, it was initially a challenge getting out past the inbound rolling waves, but once out on the calmer water and finding your balance, it was a serene, relaxing activity. You’d be paddling away calmly, looking into the water for tropical fish or, as we were so lucky to see, a wild turtle coming up for air, when CRASH! You’d suddenly be disrupted by one of the lads losing his balance and toppling into the water, much to the hysterics of the group. We all had our fair share of this happening, but the most rewarding part was being able to see the local turtle population in their natural habitat.

The second highlight actually remains as one of the most special, magical moments of my life. No, not Pete being sick in front of an entire bar of people as we pulled into harbour (more on that later) but snorkelling off the coast of Gili Trawangan. We went to one of the many trips on offer down on the beach, where they took us by boat away from the island and into the deeper waters between Gili Trawangan and Gili Meno. We jumped into the crystal waters, swimming among the shoals of tropical fish displaying a startling array of colour, darting left and right, before a shout went up that someone had seen a turtle.

The turtles really are incredible creatures; beautiful animals so graceful and peaceful in their environment. It was at this moment that one of my most vivid memories in life occurred. I was following this animal from a respectful distance as it glided calmly through the water, gently propelling itself as it came up for air before diving back into the depths below. No one else was within my field of vision and with the quiet serenity of the vast ocean around me, a shaft of light penetrated the surface, creating a thoroughly magical moment with this wonderful turtle suspended in deep blue space.

Alex looking out at the sunset over the sea off Gili Trawangan — Sunset on Gili Trawangan

Following the snorkelling fun, we were back on-board and pulling into a beachside bar on Gili Air for refreshments before making our way back to Gili Trawangan. Pete had been on the back of the boat being seasick throughout the journey, but didn’t realise the vessel had to rotate and reverse into the harbour! Cue the poor lad retching his guts out, head down and hanging off the boat, oblivious to a whole bar of people sat having drinks and eating their lunch laughing! Fantastic.

During our trip, we stayed at the Island Beach Resort on Gili Trawangan; a resplendent set of bungalows inland away from the main strip but a short bicycle ride to each side of the island. I’d genuinely say this was a hidden gem of a hotel (no commission received here), and that it’s worth looking at. The owner was helpful and friendly throughout, providing each of us with a bike free of charge, making it easy to get around the island at any time.

The nightlife is also very good on “Gili T”, whether you’re looking for a relaxing, beachside restaurant or a livelier night in the club. The night market on the island was particularly great, selling some superb local food rich in flavour. I’d highly recommend this for two reasons; number one, if you’re looking for a cheaper evening meal and number two, purely for the taste and quality of the food! You all know how weak this man is when ice cream is about, so I duly headed over to a street vendor selling Hulala Ice Cream; I’d never seen anything like it, ice cream skilfully crafted into a shape I can only describe looks like a roll of carpet! Visually aesthetic and tasty. That’s my kind of ice cream.

Away from all the sports, partying and dining, the Gili’s also offer opportunity for well-earned relaxation; with a number of beach bars and restaurants scattered along the coastline providing refreshments. I’ve always been a huge fan of the world-famous sunset at Cafe Mambo in Ibiza, often saying its the best on the planet, but I must say, the Gili’s run it close. We spent many an evening on the beach sat on huge bean bags with a beer, admiring the vivid colours of red, yellow and orange as their fiery source descended beyond the horizon. Of course, for the Instagram paparazzi, there are swings from which to take pictures, but I’d recommend doing so in the soft light of sunrise when it is a lot quieter, as there are much larger crowds later in the day.

The only downside of the Gili’s for me was that with there being no motorised vehicles on land (which don’t get me wrong, was brilliant), the two modes of transport available were either the Cidomo Horses (horse-drawn carriage) or bicycle. We used bicycles throughout our time on the island which enabled us to get everywhere relatively quickly and, whilst I appreciate the need for the horses to transport goods and people around, I did wonder at the time if they were being overworked and looked after sufficiently. It appeared some were working very long hours.

I’ve since researched this on the internet and found similar concerns; the Gili Carriage Horse Support Network is working hard to educate owners and aid the horses with basic needs such as medical care, clean water and shelter. With bicycles aplenty and Trawangan being a small island with everything within walking distance, all I’d say is this is a fun option to travel that gives the benefit of exercise and one less visitor for the horses to cart around.

On a positive note, the Gili’s are doing tremendous conservation work to preserve the natural turtle habitat and help the breeding of two local species; the Green Turtle and Hawksbill Turtle. There is a sanctuary on Gili Trawangan where eggs are collected and incubated, with hatchlings held in a holding tank until they’re old enough to be released into the wild. It was great to be able to witness this in action protecting the next generation.

Overall, the Gili’s should definitely be on your list to visit. They’re fun, marvellous islands that offer so much across multiple areas; food, drink, sporting activity, relaxation and local nature. They’re a location like no other, beautiful, vibrant and a must on your bucket list.

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