How to hike from Valbona to Theth
May 8, 2024
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Albania | Our guide to hiking from Valbona to Theth; two beautiful traditional villages lying deep in the Albanian Alps
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Hiking the Valbona Pass to Theth is a must-do for anyone planning their Albania travel itinerary. The stunning landscape of Valbona National Park offers rocky mountain paths, serene forests, windswept alpine meadows and ice-cold flowing streams.
One of the most beautiful hikes in Europe, it is definitely comparable with my experience hiking in Slovenia’s wonderful Triglav National Park.
Connecting two villages deep in the Accursed Mountains – Valbona and Theth – the Valbona Pass hike actually only takes one day to do. However, you’ll need at least three days to complete the full loop from Shkoder, the nearest big city, and back.
The Accursed Mountains – quite a strong name isn’t it? The sight of them is equally as dramatic. Stretching more than 40 miles across Northern Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro, this mesmeric mountain range has 19 peaks higher than 2,400m (7,874 feet)
If you’re looking to get away from the stresses of the modern world, then get ready to step into one from the past. Beautiful stone villages lie in the heart of these mountains, while ancient paths take you past traditional old farms deep in the wilderness.
We saw a shepherd and his dog guide his flock towards higher pastures; something particularly poignant to me, knowing my great-great-grandfather did the same in England many years ago.
Located in Valbona National Park, an 8,000 hectare part of the Albanian Alps, the Valbona Pass offers epic mountain views from a height of 1,759 metres above sea level (5,889 ft).
An old mule trail, it attracts Albanian and international tourists every year and is one of the most popular hikes in the country.
An interesting question and one we found ourselves asking halfway up the mountain!
It appeared we were the only ones hiking from Valbona to Theth, as everyone we saw along the route was hiking the other way.
Also, from my research, a lot of articles seem to focus on hiking from Theth to Valbona.
However, I can only speak from my experience, so here are my reasons to hike from Valbona to Theth.
We hiked from Valbona to Theth via the Winter Pass in shoulder season (the start of April), which according to locals, was the earliest we could do it and only because they’d been fortunate with good weather.
Although we didn’t need crampons or sticks, it was a little sketchy towards the summit, digging our feet into pure ice in places to get up the hillside. I don’t exaggerate when I say one slip could have been nasty.
This wouldn’t apply to anyone hiking later in the year as the ice will have gone, but for anyone thinking of going at this time of year, the other side had dry, woodland paths we could easily stroll down. I would certainly rather climb this icy bit than go down it.
The climb from Valbona to Theth is also easier at 630m elevation to the Valbona Pass, rather than 850m starting from Theth.
The start of the trailhead in Valbona is out of town, after a very long, rocky riverbed.
We had a guide for the route who took us via car to the start of the trail, however after a long 7-8 hour hike, the last thing I’d want to do is walk over that for an hour in the glaring afternoon sun.
If you do the other way, you’ll be descending into Theth under the shade of woodland, which is much more pleasant.
Lying deep in the Accursed Mountains, Valbona takes a little effort to get to. The combination of bus, ferry and taxi took a good 7-8 hours, meaning you’ll spend the majority of the day travelling.
Trust me, the views on the way (especially Lake Komani) and on this hike are worth it! In contrast, it’s a simple, direct bus back to Shkoder from Theth at about two hours.
It made sense to us to do the longer day trip first – while fresh – to enjoy the views before having the easier journey at the end.
If you do the other way, you’ll be descending into Theth under the shade of woodland, which is much more pleasant.
There’s more to do in Theth, so there’s more to look forward to. From Grunas Waterfall to the Blue Eye, there’s every reason to stay a couple of nights.
On the contrary, Valbona (although beautiful!) didn’t have as much, so you’d likely stay a night before moving on.
The hike from Valbona to Theth is 15km and takes between 7-8 hours to complete. It took us more towards the latter, purely because we were regularly stopping to absorb the breathtaking views, take photos and generally catch our breath.
As an indicator, we started the Valbona Pass trail at 07:30 am and reached the summit at 10:30 am, so it took us about three hours. We then got to our accommodation, Shpella Guesthouse, in Theth for about 15:00 pm.
Bear in mind that you may also have to walk through Theth to get to your accommodation. Shpella Guesthouse was good; it was about 1.5km into town from the end of the trail but was perfectly located for our hike to Grunas Waterfall and the Blue Eye the following day.
The hike through the Valbona Pass from Valbona to Theth is generally considered to be a moderate hike.
It is a good challenge and I would certainly suggest a reasonable level of fitness before attempting the hike.
One of the main energy-zapping features of the hike is the rocky terrain.
It can be uneven in places and, especially going down hill into Theth, the loose gravel means you may need to react quickly to keep your balance!
In the main though, it is generally fine.
Due to the time of year, we hiked the winter pass from Valbona to Theth. Following the red and white painted markers, it started off generally easy to navigate.
However, there was a reason we’d been recommended to get a guide, as they disappeared when he took a left turn across a rocky riverbed facing uphill towards the pass.
It may be different if you plan to hike the summer pass, so I would recommend asking your guesthouse/hostel for more information!
I would also suggest starting the hike early, particularly if you’re visiting during the summer.
Even at the start of April, temperatures were around 26 degrees celsius. Up to the Valbona Pass, there are parts where there is little shade, so you’re better off completing this in the cooler hours.
On the other side down to Theth, it is largely woodland forest.
The best time to hike the Valbona Pass is during the hiking season, which runs from May to October.
Like anywhere, July and August are the busiest times and have the warmest weather. If you want to enjoy quieter trails and increase the chances of having the views to yourself, I’d recommend going in the shoulder season (May-June or September-October).
We were a little too early, as it was touch and go whether we would even be able to hike the Valbona Pass at the start of April. Two days before we were due to depart, we messaged our hostel in Shkoder who advised that typically, the hiking season begins in mid-May.
However, a day later, they advised that following discussions with locals, they had been told that thanks to the good weather, we would be able to hike the winter pass from Valbona to Theth but only with a guide.
This was because the path still had snow and was not well marked. The summer path, however, was simply too dangerous and therefore closed.
As well as using this guide, there are multiple ways you can plan your hike from Valbona to Theth.
One of my biggest tips would be to speak to your hostel before you depart, as they can help you arrange transport, procure a guide or give guidance from local people.
It was a huge help for us and gave us the confidence to know we could still go ahead.
I highly recommend using Maps.Me. It’s a brilliant navigation app where you can download regional maps and use them offline, especially when out and about in remote places. It is a really handy tool to have, especially if you’re in a tight spot.
Finally, cash is king out in Albania. Not many places take cards. Albanian lek is a closed currency, meaning you can’t exchange it outside of Albania. Take euros with you and exchange them for lek there. Alternatively, the majority of Albanian stores and restaurants take euros at a rate of 100 lek to €1.
If you’re doing the winter route, then yes. For the first part of the ascent to Valbona Pass, it was clearly marked out and I wondered if we really needed a guide.
We absolutely did. He turned off across a dry riverbed at a place that was completely unmarked – there’s no way we would ever have known to have gone in that direction.
Also, with it being shoulder season and snow on the trail, it was treacherous in some steep places. We had to really kick into the ice to make footholds. One slip and it could have been a nasty outcome, so for that reason, our guide was invaluable, leading the way and making a trail for us to follow.
The price of the guide was €70 between the two of us. If you can find other people to go too, you’d be able to divide that fee between you. Speak to your hostel or guesthouse; they can generally arrange a guide to take you over the Valbona Pass.
I definitely recommend a good pair of sturdy hiking boots. The mountainous terrain is very rocky and uneven in places, so a reliable pair that gives you support and grip is vital.
Even in spring or summer, the weather can turn very quickly up in the mountains. It was 26 degrees but the wind at the top of the Valbona Pass was chilly, so I was grateful to have a fleece.
It didn’t rain during our hike, but that could have changed at any time. It’s essential to pack a waterproof coat.
A good, sturdy rucksack that you can store your warm, dry clothes in is vital. If you can get a proper hiking daypack that you can clip across your chest and your waist, that is even better to help reduce the strain on your back and shoulders.
Remember to stock up on water and food before you hike, so that you can stay hydrated throughout the walk. Food to boost energy levels is also advised, especially after ascending from Valbona to the Valbona Pass, before the descent down into Theth.
Who doesn’t enjoy eating a sandwich on top of the world?
The hike from Valbona to Theth can be quite exposed, especially during the ascent to the Valbona Pass. The sun certainly beats down on you, therefore as well as staying hydrated, I highly recommend taking suncream and a hat.
There’s nothing worse than the onset of sunstroke halfway up a mountain!
Purchase enough supplies for your hike while in Shkoder, as we didn’t see any supermarkets in Valbona. High energy foods can recharge the legs throughout the 15km hike from Valbona to Theth.
Make sure you book accommodation that includes breakfast as part of the price. Our hosts, the wonderful family at Guesthouse Demushi, asked what time we were leaving and ensured breakfast was ready before we left.
A hearty, traditional Albanian breakfast helped us fuel up for the day ahead. Also, there’s not many restaurants in Valbona and, of those that are, it is unlikely they’ll be open if you want to set off early.
There are several cafes located along the route, though none were open at the start of the shoulder season, so I can’t give guidance on their quality.
Simoni Kafe was the first cafe we encountered before our ascent to the Valbona Pass; a wooden establishment with tables and chairs located next to a flowing mountain stream.
We stocked up on fresh water from the tap there, but research suggests that when open, you can get coffee, beers and even rajika! There is also another cafe on the descent down from the Valbona Pass into Theth; a small place in the woods.
It might seem complex to get from Shkoder to Valbona, but it’s really simple. A day of travelling via bus, ferry and taxi can feel quite daunting, but it made for a great adventure.
For those insistent on driving, it is possible but would take 5-6 hours. I daresay it wouldn’t be half as fun either – you’d miss the amazing Lake Komani!
Pretty much every hostel or guesthouse in Shkoder will help you book a bus to Lake Komani, but be warned, it arrives early!
The helpful team at The Wanderers Hostel booked the bus to collect us at 06:10am to get us to Lake Komani for the 09:00am ferry. Costing 800 lek (€8.00), the bus took approximately two and a half hours.
It takes you directly to the port where there is a small cafe. Stop here for refreshments and to use the toilet.
Take a two and a half hour ferry across the serene waters of Lake Komani; a beautiful lake lined by imposing woodland hills, sheer rock cliffs and intricate little coves. Believe it or not, it’s actually artificially built, formed in 1979 as part of the construction of the Konam Dam.
Tickets to catch the ferry cost just 1000 lek (€10.00) and were worth every penny. We didn’t sit down inside, instead opting to spend the journey out on deck admiring the stunning views.
My tip is to get right to the front of the ferry (without blocking the captain’s view) and sit down to experience the best view on the boat.
Also, notice how it regularly stops to drop off and pick up passengers. On more than one occasion, we wondered where on earth people had even come from, as it looked like there wasn’t a building in sight!
Finishing the ferry journey at Fierza Port at around 11:30 am, you can get a taxi to Valbona. People on the ferry asked who wanted a taxi upon arrival and it turned out our driver was onboard. We had been told a taxi would be €50 for the two of us, but we jumped in with a French family which brought the price down per person.
After a couple of days hiking, it is a simple, direct journey from Theth to Shkoder. Guesthouse Shpella, our accommodation for two nights, kindly arranged for a mini-van to take us to Shkoder for 1200 lek (€12.00) per person.
A two-hour journey, it takes you on a winding mountainside road, offering thrilling views of the Theth valley, before descending into another part of the Accursed Mountains and eventually reaching the flat road to Shkoder.
Our minivan dropped us off in the centre of Shkoder, just a few minutes walk from The Wanderers Hostel where we’d stored our large backpacks.
The majority of hostels in Shkoder should have a storage room where you can leave your luggage while you complete the three to four day loop.
We really didn’t want to carry 80L backpacks with all our belongings over the Valbona Pass, so instead we packed a daypack with a few day’s clothes and left our backpacks in storage at The Wanderers Hostel.
It is possible to drive from Valbona to Theth, but it’s a five hour, 178 km drive. Unfortunately there is no direct route.
Hiking the Valbona Pass from Valbona to Theth is one of the best experiences I have ever had. The sheer scale of the surrounding mountains, their raw beauty and the views throughout the hike were something I’ll never forget.
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Hello! I’m Alex, a passionate advocate of travelling the world and helping other travellers achieve the best possible experience.
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