How to hike from Valbona to Theth
May 8, 2024
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Albania | Our guide to hiking from Valbona to Theth; two beautiful traditional villages lying deep in the Albanian Alps
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A wonderful fusion of Cretan, Ottoman and Venetian influences, Chania’s Old Venetian Harbour encapsulates the melting pot of cultures that define the island of Crete.
Bustling with locals and tourists alike, this attractive promenade offers a wide-array of things to do, from exploring unique historical sites to shopping, dining or simply enjoying the views.
If you’re looking for a quaint seaside port full of character, then read our guide to exploring Chania’s Old Venetian Harbour.
Built during the Venetian occupation of Crete between 1204 and 1669, Chania’s Old Venetian Harbour was once the second most prominent port in the east Mediterranean, behind Venice itself.
Nowadays, it is a highly popular, charming tourist destination home to a thriving hub of restaurants, shops, museums and boat trips.
We explored Chania’s Old Venetian Harbour from west to east, starting at The Maritime Museum of Crete, near The Firkas Fortress. For the purpose of this article, locations will be covered in order from that direction.
Simply start from Chania Sailing Club’s headquarters at Neoria Moro if you want to do it in reverse order.
Maritime Museum of Crete Address: Akti Kountourioti, Venetian Port of Chania.
That depends on how hot it is and how often you want to stop for drinks!
Emily and myself did it within 2-3 hours, however it was towards the end of July in 30 degree heat and we stopped a couple of times for shade and refreshments.
The distance from the Maritime Museum of Crete on the east side of the port all the way around to the Lighthouse of Chania is 1.8 kilometres.
Make sure you have plenty of water and sun cream, particularly in the summer months when the temperatures can get very hot. I highly recommend taking a hat or some kind of headcover when you’re walking along the seawall to the Lighthouse of Chania, because there is very little shade available.
The imposing Firkas Fortress is a sight to behold, dominating the eastern side of Chania’s Old Venetian Port. If they could talk, the tall yellow stone walls could surely tell a tale or two, having stood strong since 1610 to defend against enemy threats.
Initially called Revellino del Porto, the fortress was captured alongside the rest of the city by the Ottomans in 1645. Its reputation as the Firkas Fortress stems from its use as a barracks by the conquerors, with barracks translating as “firka” in Turkish.
As a Game of Thrones fan, I loved discovering that the Firkas Fortress and the Lighthouse of Chania played a critical role in the defence of the port. They were once linked by a giant chain that could close off the harbour mouth.
It reminded me of the infamous Battle of the Blackwater when Tyrion used that very trick to trap Stannis’ burning fleet!
Thankfully, the fortress is now used for more peaceful purposes, namely as the home for the Maritime Museum of Crete, which attracts around 45,000 visitors every year.
There’s a calm, relaxed hustle and bustle around Chania’s old harbour as you make your way from the Firkas Fortress towards the centre of the port. Don’t worry, whether you need a drink or lunch, there’s an abundance of cafes and restaurants lined along the pretty promenade.
When it comes to food, Chania is well regarded as one of the premier destinations on Crete, with many restaurants serving traditional Greek cuisine. As a rule, I generally don’t like to eat in the prominent tourist areas, instead preferring the small, family-run establishments a street or two behind.
However, I can recommend Amphora on the seafront. A delightful, authentic Greek restaurant with a picturesque appearance, the traditional blue and white decor certainly caught my eye.
I was lucky enough to enjoy an incredible Pastitsio, which is the Greek equivalent of a Lasagna. Rather than use pasta sheets to layer the dish, they used small pasta tubes combined with fresh local ingredients to cook up a stunning meal.
Not quite hungry yet? Carry on around to the marina and past the old Venetian shipyards, where you can find Neoria Fish Tavern. Recommended by Jacob at My Taxi Van, who we used extensively throughout the holiday, it provided a lovely seafront view of the boats and a great seafood linguine.
The old Venetian harbour can get quite busy from 19:00 pm onwards and offers a superb location to enjoy the gorgeous Cretan sunset.
If there’s one place in Chania’s old Venetian Port that immediately captured my attention, it was the Yali Tzamii Mosque. Clearly a building of historical significance, it was actually the first mosque built in Crete following the Ottoman conquest in 1649.
Reddish domes protrude from the flat roof, with the largest supported by four magnificent curving pillars. I’ve since read that it is a superb example of Renaissance Islamic art.
Translated as, “Mosque of the Sea ”, the Yali Tzamii Mosque is on the corner of the harbour as you walk east towards Chania’s Marina. It is easily accessible from Chalidon Street, which is the main thoroughfare down to the old harbour.
You can walk around the perimeter of the building, appreciating its beauty and the history behind it. No longer a place of Islamic worship since 1923, the mosque is now used for events and exhibitions.
Have you noticed people looking out onto Chania’s old harbour from what appears to be a viewpoint up on the huge wall behind the Yali Tzamii mosque?
We did and with a little investigative work on Google Maps, we found out how to experience the superb views. Continue past the mosque and along the harbour until you reach the Centre of Mediterranean Architecture, where turn right and take the stairs up to AG Markou Street.
At the top, take a right and turn back along the road, following it around to the left to what is an old square overlooking the harbour.
It provides a magnificent view of Chania’s Old Venetian Port with the Yali Tzamii mosque below and the Firkas Fortress on the far end, with the hustle and bustle of the harbour’s shops and restaurants in between.
It is a great spot for people watching. Down below, couples and families wander slowly around the harbour, choosing which restaurant to visit, while tourists wait patiently as boats pick them up for a sightseeing tour.
I can’t believe a big hotel or restaurant hasn’t been built on the square, as I can only imagine it would be a prime piece of real estate with the views on offer.
Returning back to the Centre of Mediterranean Architecture on the promenade, it’s time to experience the next part of Chania’s rich heritage.
The centre is actually in the Grand Arsenal; a 16th-century stone building that is the grandest of Chania’s Venetian Shipyards. Standing proud on the promenade, the building was previously left abandoned in a dilapidated state, before renovation in 2002 brought it back to life as a fantastic event and exhibition space.
Seven Venetian shipyards line the promenade as you continue along the marina, with some still operational, making boat repairs to this day. These magnificent arched buildings, constructed from beautiful stone hewn by highly-skilled stonemasons, have a proud history.
The first two were originally constructed in 1526 and by 1599, a total of 17 had been completed. Unfortunately, the Ottoman occupation saw the shipyards reduced to the role of military storage, with nine eventually being demolished.
In the beautiful summer sun, those that remain certainly add to Chania’s charm, providing yet another stunning aspect of this wonderful seaside city.
Chania’s sea wall is a magnificent structure running adjacent to the promenade, protecting the city’s harbour and marina. Offering a superb view of the historic port and the beautiful Greek coastline, the sea wall is a popular location for tourists as they make their way to the famous lighthouse.
In total, the seawall stretches for 600m to the lighthouse and in the glare of the summer sun, it can be an intense walk.
However, it offers a number of excellent views, whether you walk along the base of the wall or on the very top. The old Venetian shipyards and boats line the shore opposite, while behind them in the distance, you can make out the Minaret of Ahmet Aga.
On the seawall itself, you’ll find the St. Nicholas Bastion, which played a vital role protecting the port from pirates. Its roof and old shooting galleries offer the perfect place for panoramic views, while the arched windows looking out to sea provide a great place for pictures.
They do say to save the best until last, don’t they?
Chania’s beautiful Venetian lighthouse is symbolic of Crete’s second largest city. While I love the Yali Tzamii mosque, for me it is the pre-eminent feature of the old port, standing proud at the end of the seawall. As you’d expect, it is also steeped in history.
Built by the Venetians in 1570, it is one of the oldest lighthouses in the world. Unfortunately, it was heavily damaged in battle with the Ottomans for control of the port in 1645.
However, you may have noticed that it is also referred to as the “Egyptian lighthouse”. This is because it was reconstructed by Egyptian troops in 1830, who were occupying Crete on behalf of the declining Ottoman Empire.
Nowadays, it is a popular attraction for couples, families and travellers making their way along the seawall to this iconic structure. Although you can’t go in, you can still admire its beauty and craftsmanship. It is also a popular spot for a romantic evening walk, offering the ideal location for the stunning sunset out to sea over the Kissamos Mountains.
Of course, we enjoyed the opportunity to look back across the harbour at the mosque, as well as observe the hustle and bustle of the local restaurants. It really does provide the perfect way to end a morning or afternoon exploring Chania’s old Venetian harbour.
Talking of sunsets, why not try a sunset boat trip from the old harbour? It’s the ideal way to get an alternative view of the port’s iconic locations, from the famous old lighthouse and the Yali Tzamii mosque to the historic Venetian Shipyards – both in daylight and at dusk.
We took a trip with Manos Cruises, who took us out to Lazaretta Island to experience an incredible sunset over the Kissamos mountains. You can read my full review of that awesome experience by hitting the button below.
There is no doubt that Chania’s Old Venetian Harbour is a superb reflection of Crete’s unique, diverse cultural history. Whether you’re drawn to its historical sites, waterfront dining or panoramic views, there’s something for everyone along this charming promenade.
Read more… Guide: Chania Sunset Boat Tour
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