Ecuador

When one is helping another, both gain in strength."

Ecuador is a country often rushed or, in some cases, completely missed by many travellers making their way through the continent. Whether it’s the allure of Peru and the world-famous Machu Pichu in the south or the warm sunshine of Colombia’s Caribbean coast to the north, I just don’t know. What I do know is that they’re missing out on one of South America’s most underrated gems. From the lush rainforests of Mindo to the magnificent Quilotoa Caldera, there’s a mystique and character unique to this little country on the equator. 

None more so than in the capital city, Quito, nestled high in the Andes. A little under-loved, and often overlooked, this sprawling city is home to a charismatic, UNESCO-listed old town steeped in history. Used by many as a transit point to the likes of the Galapagos, it’s a destination that deserves time to be explored in its own right, whether it be for the stunning views from Cruz de Loma or the 17th-Century townhouses lining its cobbled streets 

Away from the city, the country is home to some of the best landscapes South America has to offer, including the amazing Cotopaxi volcano and the epic Devil’s Cauldron. Sadly, my  Ecuadorean adventure was cut short due to the unprecedented arrival of the Coronavirus pandemic. The short time I had in the country prior to this was fantastic and certainly enough to entice me to return in future.

Frankly, it’s too good not to.

Alex taking a photo of Quito from Rucu Pichincha

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Where to begin?

The adventure begins at the Rumichaca crossing on the northern border between Colombia and Ecuador. Why not kick off your first taste of the country by visiting Otavalo, home to one of South America’s largest indigenous markets. From here, continue on down to Quito, the capital of Ecuador surrounded by the Andes mountain range. Take a walking tour around the historic colonial old town or jump on the TelerifQo up to 4,100m at Cruz de Loma for stunning panoramic views across the city.

Using Quito as a central base, head north-west for a couple of days in the lush, green rainforests of Mindo or travel east to soak in the hot volcanic springs of Papallacta. Looking for adventure? Then we’re heading south down the Pan-American Highway to Latacunga where we’ll spend three-to-four days hiking the legendary Quilotoa Loop. The fun doesn’t stop here, as further south is Baños, the adventure capital of the country and home to the magnificent Pailon del Diablo waterfall.

There’s multiple options to choose from upon leaving Baños. Do you want to head east to Puyo, the gateway to the Amazon or continue south to Riobamba, where you can climb the tallest volcano in the world? Either one sounds fun. After all the climbing and walking, it’s time to let the train do the hard work, riding up to Nariz del Diablo (or Devil’s Nose) high up in the Southern Andes.

Ingapirca awaits with Ecuador’s very own Incan ruins, which can be reached via the three-day Camino del Inca hike from Cuenca. From there, you can either head west to Guayaquill and the coastal villages of Montañita or continue south towards the Peruvian border via the towns of Loja or Vilcabamba.*

*After extensive research in the preceding months, this was the route I planned to take during my stay in Ecuador. Unfortunately, this came to a premature end at Latacunga and Baños as the country shutdown due to the growing Coronavirus pandemic. My experience during these anxious times can be followed here.

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Mindo's Cloud Forest: Sanctuario de Cascadas
Mindo, a small village in Ecuador’s Western Andes, is home to a cloudforest teeming with nature. We explored some incredible waterfalls on the Sanctuario de Cascada’s hike…
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Quito, high up in the Andes, is home to a stunning colonial centre. Full of charm & history, there’s plenty of activities for your Quito itinerary…
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Quito: The Historic Old Town
CarpeDM’s Free Walking Tour was a great way to get into the fabric of Ecuador’s wonderful capital city and it’s colonial past….
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