A guide to Cueva del Esplendor in Jardín, Colombia

Cueva Del Esplendor: Hidden in the hills

It felt like a scene on Skull Island in a King Kong film. As we followed the rough, sodden path through the dense vegetation, we continued downhill in our search for the elusive Cueva del Esplendor. A damp, earthy smell hung in the air; a by-product of one of the recent thunderstorms lighting the skies over Jardin. This part of the Colombian Andes often sees huge amounts of rainwater unleashed into the region’s valleys.

Of course, we knew we’d find the cave as we followed our guide, but that feeling of adventure was ever present. It was my second hike in the 17 days I’d been in Colombia and my first since our epic 33km trek through the beautiful rainforests of Minca. After five days in the buzzing urban metropolis of Medellin, it was nice to be back in the hands of nature once again.

A view of the forest mountains from the start of the trail. — The view from the farm

It’s only when you’re away from civilisation that you really appreciate how small you are in the colossal circle of life. The huge trees looming high into the sky, the buzz of insects frantically going about their daily lives and the far-off cries of unseen animals pierce the atmosphere around you. Of course, it’s possible to feel this in rural locations around the world, but never have I done so more than in the jungles of Colombia. It’s only through travelling that I’ve really learnt to appreciate the planet we live on, whether it be in Ecuador’s rich, diverse Mindo cloud forest or the hot, humid islands in the gulf of Thailand. In truth, I have no particular favourite. They’re all magical in their own way and it’s for this reason, I implore everybody to see what they can. It has certainly opened my eyes to the rich beauty of our world, even in the garden of my own home, and the associated challenges we face to protect our environment.

Nine months later on a mild, Autumnal Sunday afternoon, my mind turns to Jardin, deep in the Colombian region of Antioquia. This quaint, colourful little pueblo, so often overlooked by travellers in favour of the larger, more popular Salento, was one of my favourite destinations throughout my tour of the country. Peaceful and serene, it is located amidst the Colombian Andes and is home to some truly violent thunderstorms; dousing the lush, folded landscape with huge torrents of water. This has, however, created some wonderful natural attractions. Whisper it quietly, one is the elusive Cueva del Esplendor.

Alex with Jarden behind in the valley below. — A view of Jardin

Information

Transport… I used the official tour provider, Cueva del Esplendor, who can be found at the top of Jardin village on Carrera 2a. They provided an open jeep to transport us on an hour-long journey up the rocky, worn tracks coursing through the hills of the Andes to the beginning of the trail. For those who want to save on transport costs, you can access Cueva del Esplendor by taking a very long hike up to the farmstead at the trail’s entrance. However, I understand this takes a few hours.

Cost… The cost of the trip was $55,000 COP (£11.23/$14.77) and, in my opinion, it was well worth the price given it included transportation, snacks, lunch, entry to the attraction and a guide.

Waterproof raincoat… As with any hike in South America, I’d always recommend taking a waterproof coat. It’s especially relevant in this case as the cave entrance is very wet and holds a substantial amount of water vapour. I have a Patagonia Torrentshell and it proved fantastic throughout the entire trip.

Hiking boots… Some of the trails can get very muddy and wet. A sturdy pair of hiking boots with good grip are invaluable. We also had to cross streams along our route. I use the Timberland Saddler Pass and they’re brilliant.

Our Group

When I’m travelling alone, I do have that slight bit of anxiety about the people I’ll meet on these tours. If I’m honest, I don’t know why. The majority of people I’ve met so far have been great. Maybe it’s just human nature to have reservations about the unknown and what you’re heading into. It’s fair to say that on this occasion though, we had a fantastic group. Straight away everyone introduced themselves as we rattled around in the back of this jeep, bumping and bouncing over the rough hewn roads leading out of Jardin.

There was a group of five of us in total, including a Colombian family consisting of Alex, Mauricio and their mother, Amparra. We were also joined by Sandra, a Dutch national from Amsterdam who was travelling alone for a period of roughly eight weeks. With Mauricio and Amparra speaking little English and the Spanish of both Sandra and myself being reasonable but limited, it fell on Alex to translate between both parties. It made for some rather interesting exchanges but we were quickly chatting away and building rapport. It made the whole tour much easier, quickly breaking the ice and allowing everyone to relax and enjoy the trip.

The group stood on the trail next to the jeep — Our Guide, Alex (Depth of Mind), Alex, Amparra, Sandra & Mauricio

A Sugar Rush Hike: Arepa's & Aguapanela

Having negotiated the stony, winding tracks into the Andean mountainside, we disembarked halfway and continued on foot up to the small homestead from which we’d join the trail. Even at this point, the scenery was stunning. Deep green hills rolled away over the horizon, interspersed with jungle and farmland. A haze hung lazily in the air, providing a sheen over the surrounding countryside. It was a promising sign of things to come.

Upon entering the small farm, we were served homemade arepa’s and aguapanela; a beautiful, sweet drink made from hardened sugar cane. For someone with a sweet tooth like me, it was most welcome! Fully refreshed and charged with energy, we made our way down the damp, muddy trail, pressing through the jungle foliage with the sound of rushing water in the valley below. It felt like an adventure – something out of King Kong – as we dashed across flowing streams and rivers via a combination of stepping stones and guide ropes. As we negotiated one fast-paced crossing, we turned the corner into a huge rock, with the only route being to clamber through the large, naturally created hole bored over thousands of years by wind and water. We did, and what we discovered took my breath away.

Magic & Splendour

The Wall of Wishes; a gateway to Cueva del Esplendor where many have wished for good fortune and health. The tall, lichen-covered cliff face had a constant stream of water dripping and running down it, providing a welcome cool-off in the jungle heat. We stood underneath it for a moment, taking in the cool mist and vapour drifting down, occasionally getting wet as a stream of water ran off the wall.

The Wall of Wishes outside Cueva Del Esplendor — The Wall of Wishes

The real treat, however, was still to come. We walked past the wall and into the dark abyss, opening up a magnificent sight as our eyes adjusted to the light. Amidst a roar and thunder, a huge waterfall was storming through a hole in the cave roof, crafted over millions of years by mother nature. The torrent, which then exited the cave swirling around large rocks and pools, was bright white against the shadowy backdrop. It was like a shining ray of light out of the heavens. No wonder it literally translates as “Cave of Splendour”.

Cueva Del Esplendor, a waterfall flowing through the roof of a dark cave into the pool below. — Cueva del Esplendor

As we took pictures and admired the view, our guide pointed out another vantage point from which we could take a look. For one reason or another, I was the only one who opted to climb up to this alternative viewpoint, but I’m so pleased I did. For a moment, it felt like I had this entire natural phenomenon to myself; like an explorer from a bygone age discovering a forgotten land. It was a magical experience and, at that very point, I understood why I had chosen to come to South America; it was for the nature. Certain moments stay with you for life and for me, that will be one of them.

Damp but thoroughly exhilarated, we made our way back up the slippery, muddy track to the farmstead for some Marra (which I understood to be homemade blackberry juice) and another savoury Colombian delicacy. There’s no doubt we were looked after throughout the entire trip and at a cost of $55,000 COP, it was definitely one of the better priced tours I took throughout the six weeks I was in South America.

Alex inside the cave stood in front of Cueva Del Esplendor waterfall — Alex in Cueva Del Esplendor

Our World

Looking back, it was a fantastic experience and one I will always remember. It is testament to the sheer power of the water’s ferocity that it has carved a hole in the rock over thousands of years through which to plunge into the cavern below. I’ve never seen anything quite like it. One thing I’ve learned this year amidst the Coronavirus-enforced blanket pause on life is that the world goes on. Nature goes on. Whether it’s halfway across the globe or in the local countryside, there’s so much to see and do. That’s why we really need to come together to fight to protect our natural environment before it is lost forever. My advice is to get out and explore. Appreciate it and learn from it. You never quite know what you might discover.